Mar 22 2008
Back to Day Eight: Lenten Thoughts from the Rector
This morning we returned to our plot of hardscrabble earth in the Mitchells Plain township. It is as desolate a stretch of ground, as true a wasteland, as one could imagine. There it sits, between two-year-old Heinz Park Primary School and a chain fence that demarcates the school’s bounds, beyond which stretches shack after shack after shack, separated by dirt yards and streets. We used shovels and picks to break through the baked soil, and we dug up bricks, chunks of cement, nylon bags, nails, and rocks, rocks, rocks. It seems that our patch of earth was the dumping ground for the school’s builders.
Our task: dig trenches and large, circular holes, fill them with organic material, sift the dirt back into them, and create garden beds, which we watered and planted. We cart away the stones and other materials that have sifted out of the dirt. We are also constructing a compost pile and a large above-the-ground planting bed. I cannot not imagine a more radical change for this plot of sand. Turning a desert into an oasis, of sorts. How improbable.
I’ve been fighting a stomach virus, so my energy was low. Ten cracks with the pick or twenty shovels full of dirt, and I was winded. The sun, which in South Africa is relentlessly direct, was an unsupportable weight for me. I was thirsty all the time. I became dizzy, even a bit disoriented. At moments I wondered who I and where I am.
So, angry with myself, I had to sit often and for long periods of time. And there, with my back against the wall of the primary school, in a sliver of shade, I observed and thought.
There is a smell in this section of the township-a combination of charcoal, bad food, and dust. In the door of one tin hut, no more than the size of a large Chatham Hall bedroom, a baby, sitting on the dirt floor, played with what looked like a tennis racket. A whining dog hovered in the yard. I thought of this scene multiplied by millions before me.
Two adolescents climbed to the roof of the shack next door and watched us work. From the open window above me, the shouts of grade-school kids. What was being accomplished in that classroom? Three barefoot children appeared at the fence. In midday this massive township seemed like, well, a ghost town. So little life.
The gardens took shape before me. Hacking. Digging. Sifting. The organic material added the smell of rot to the air. Flies began to hover. And then it struck me that perhaps I was being told to take notice this morning, not simply to get caught up in the task at hand. Perhaps I was being instructed in how to take on the burden, to notice it, to feel its heft. I have read the books and studied the history, but I had to sit and feel the oppressiveness in my body to understand even a fraction of the reality of this place. The sun stared at me in a staggering negative. The land resisted every overture. The body and the soul simply become weary here.
Two days ago, Palm Sunday. This weekend, Easter. Holy week. I had brought Bonhoeffer’s The Cost of Discipleship with me for my Lenten reading. But there, before me, the township was my text. Perhaps, unawares, I had traveled to Mitchells Plain in a pilgrimage, of sorts. A challenge to the body, mind, and soul. The challenge of Lent.
What hope in the wasteland? There was my Lenten question. As I sat watching others hacking and digging into that desolate earth, so I felt something forcing me to go deep within myself. To crack through a resistance in me. To see if there is that solid grounding of hope and belief. Doing so made me weak and tired.
Modest seedlings before me from a thoroughly resistant earth. Miles upon miles of ramshackle emptiness beyond. How much work of the heart, soul, and body there is to be done. A staggering challenge issued to me in my deep weariness. The cost of discipleship. The challenge of Easter.